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System Installation

Installing and learning how an HHO System works is a rewarding experience


     We have developed this simplified checklist to assure anyone can learn to install their
own HHO system, or can have the support they need for another helper or mechanic
to be successful.

     This is the public access version of the Installation steps. As a customer, you are provided
with a hidden link to more comprehensive information and a large library of reference photos.

 

     Enjoy, and take each step slowly for excellent results!

       Click on any step below for additional steps and photographs

1)    Confirm receipt of all components and familiarize yourself with
       the names of all the parts

2)    Start by deciding on locations to mount the HHO generator and
       the water reservoir

3)    Locate and mount the HHO generator

4)    Locate and mount the water reservoir tank

5)    Route and attach the hoses

6)    Connect the HHO line to the air intake system

7)    Route and connect the electrical lines to the system

8)    Mix an initial batch of electrolyte solution and add it to the tank

9)    Do an initial test with the system running to confirm amperage, check for leaks

10)    Review FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Support Articles




 

 > First Step >

 

1) Review Components

     Every HHO System comes complete with a Packing List. It's a good idea to read through the list first to make sure all the parts are included properly. However, the added benefit of reading through it is you quickly learn some basic terms that are used throughout the installation and tuning process.

     Match the different components with their names, and take some time to learn the meanings of certain terms you will be using as an HHO enthusiast.

     Generally the systems are presented in these following groupings:

HHO Generator

    The generator (or 'cell') will sometimes include fittings, electrical crimp connectors, and 'jumper' wires.

Water Tank and Hoses

     The water reservoir tank will vary in size depending on your system. It will generally have three fittings installed on it for hoses. The hose supplied is called 'braided' PVC. The nylon braiding inside the walls makes it very strong, and PVC plastic is rated safe for hydrogen.

Wiring Pack

     This pack will include the need wire of the correct thickness (called 'gauge') along with switch, circuit breaker, crimp connectors, and any related jumper wires.

Accessory Pack

     The accessory pack usually contains the relay or solenoid for system activation as well as an amp gauge. These are generally considered required equipment for higher end systems.

     We call them accessories so we can mix and match components and add them to our basic packages. These items can sometimes be replaced when sophisticated electronics are added, such as our PWM.

Reservoir Install Pack

     This pack contains hardware to mount the cell and tank, along with components for the water supply line. We also include packets of our potassium based electrolyte.

     Please continue to the next step of planning your system.    




      




     See our Glossary for more common words.

 

 

2) Locations For System Install

     The first task is to find good placement for the HHO Generator and the Water Tank.
Many of the other components are fairly easy to find installation space.

     The most popular space for newer cars is directly behind the front grille, and in front of the radiator. Often there is a 'vanity' panel or another type of removable plastic cover that allows access to this space. Our cells are designed to work with the restrictions of modern vehicles.

     Consider you best overall location based upon visibility and heat. We obviously do not recommend installing any cell near the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipes of the vehicle. If you are planning on using the vehicle as for demonstration purposes, you may choose to install it in a very visible area to show.

     Many locations exist including:

In front of the radiator and behind the front grille
Under the hood, near the firewall
Along the chassis rails, generally accessible from under the vehicle
Under the battery box
Inside fender wells
Inside the front bumper
Near windshield washer tanks
In the trunk or rear hatchback


     If a truck or van:

Behind the cab
In the truck bed
In the cargo area
In the rear of the vehicle (but mounted inside a toolbox to disguise)






 

 

3) Locate and Mount the HHO Generator

     We start by looking for a good location that will provide a secure mounting surface. The brackets attached to the HHO generator are very strong and can also be modified or attached to other mounting plates.

     Don't worry too much about access. When running properly, the unit will need little attention. Initially it is good to be able to visually inspect it and later to make sure it's not picking up too much road dirt or debris.

     When necessary, the unit can be mounted horizontally or at a slight angle. It is important to orient the 'top' output elbow so it is at the highest point possible. This allows the water level to remain high inside the cell and produce make the maximum contact with the plates.

     Consider the following when choosing your mounting point:

     The water reservoir tank will need to be higher than the HHO generator, as the system uses water gravity to feed the unit. Yes, this can be a small amount of difference, but the bottom of the water tank should always be higher than the top of the cell.

     After you decide on your mounting location, we need to mark holes for drilling. Two bolts are adequate support, but using all four will increase its security.

     After the generator is mounted, check that you are able to route and attach your hoses to each side of the unit. Also, the wires leading to it for the electricity should be able to follow a secure surface or run along with other existing harnesses.



 

 

4) Locate and Mount the Water Reservoir

     The water reservoir comes in different sizes depending upon your HHO system.

     Typically, it can be fit within the engine compartment, sometimes mounted flat against the firewall, but many times next to another accessory or a a right angle to open areas.

     You will need to be able to 'top off' the water level after every few tanks of gas.

     It is important to mount the tank higher than the HHO generator. It does not have to be much higher, but the bottom of the tank should be above the top of the fuel cell.

     The tank can be mounted directly above the cell, but make sure there is good ventilation so heat does not artificially raise the operating temperature of the water or the overall system.


 

 

5) Route and Attach the Hoses

     There are three hoses to consider for your system.

     First, the water supply line runs from the reservoir tank to the HHO generator. Next, the return hose from the top fitting of the cell runs back to the upper fitting on the reservoir. Finally, the third line runs from the opposite top fitting on the reservoir to the HHO Dryer and on toward the engine. This engine hose has expanded instructions in the next step, but please reserve at least three feet of hose for use with this line.

     Water Supply Line

     The first hose to route is the water supply line that leads from the reservoir tank to the lowest fitting on the HHO generator.
When running this line, also plan to install any additional items along its path including the check valve and the quick disconnect. If you choose not to use the check valve, your water tank will create 'foam' from the bubble back and you will need to purchase an anit foaming agent from a pool supply store.

     HHO Return Line

     As the water flows into the cell, the HHO gas is then produced and rises from the upper most fitting on the cell. This fitting should have a hose that leads back to the reservoir.

     This is important because along with the HHO gas, the bubbles push water up this line. The hose needs to allow for the water to 'drip' back into the reservoir tank, allowing the gas to escape through the opposite fitting on the top of the tank.

     Reservoir to HHO Dryer

     We recommend this hose from water tank to the dryer be about three feet long before reaching the dryer. This is important when you 'tune' the system for optimum results. Initially if the system is running too hot or producing steam, the longer hose will allow the water to condense along the walls of the hose and not reach the engine. It also allows for a good visual inspection for troubleshooting.
    

 
     Dryer to Engine

     From the dryer a length of hose should attach to the engine's air intake system. This is covered more in the next section. What's important is that you get consistent, dry HHO gas to the engine. Make sure you can inspect the dryer and visually confirm no water is getting into the engine.


     Please see the next section for an overview of selecting your HHO connection point to the engine's air intake system.


 

 

6) Connect the HHO to the Air Intake System

     It's important to find the 'best' connection point available for good results and a professional looking installation.

     Generally on gasoline powered engines, we are looking for a point between the the air filter box and the throttle body. The throttle body is a butterfly valve that opens and closes via cables and linkage from the accelerator pedal.

     The system does not require much vacuum pressure, but we do need to make sure the HHO is being pulled into the engine and not getting lost or dispersed beforehand. A hole drilled into the intake system before the throttle body is the best approach. The hole can be from 6 inches to 18 inches away depending on the amount of vacuum pressure.

     Start with a test hole as close to six inches as the design of the air system will allow. If the hole seems to provide a slight vacuum pull both at idle and when accelerating the engine, go ahead and increase the size of the hole to accommodate your connector fitting.

     Most modern systems are manufactured using a rubberized plastic material. This material allows you to 'screw' the connector into the hole usually without the need to thread or 'tap' the hole first. A secure fit can be accomplished without the need for any glues or adhesives.

     In earlier days, people were encouraged to introduce the HHO supply line after the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. This was simply because some earlier systems would leak steam or solution into the engine and it would damage the MAF sensor. Today's Advanced HHO systems have several features to prevent water from reaching the engine, so more time can be spent on finding the perfect location to introduce the hydrogen gas.



     Please see the next section for an overview of wiring your electrical system.


 

 

7) Route and Connect the Electrical to the System

     Wiring your system can be very intimidating at first. We believe you will do well with this single page overview as we break this section into five basic steps. Please follow them in order for best results. As questions arise, there is more support for each step available as needed.

Basic Concept


     7-1  The basic wiring concept is to run two wires from the battery to the HHO generator. The heavy gauge wire supplied is colored for the positive wiring and black for the negative (ground) wire.

     Begin by finding a route for the wire to follow from the battery to the cell.
It does not matter which 'tab' on the cell you use for positive or negative. (Please be sure your cell is not filled with water at this stage of installation.)

 
     Note: on double stack cells, the center tab is usually used for positive power and both of the two outside tabs are then used as ground (negative) and can be jumpered together.

Gauges in the Cab

     7-2  Before actually running the wires, you next should consider where you want to install some components along the positive wire.
The biggest decision is the location of the amp gauge.

     If you want the amp gauge inside the driver's cabin, you will need to run the positive wire into the cab and back to the cell. About half our customers put this gauge inside the vehicle. The other half choose to simply install the gauge under the hood near the cell for occasional inspection of current draw.

Control Components

     7-3  Next decide where the circuit breaker and the relay (or solenoid) will be installed. The circuit breaker acts just like a fuse. However, a fuse 'blows' and needs to be replaced while the circuit breaker will 'open' when too much current is measured and after some time will reset itself and close the circuit so the system can run again normally.

     The relay (or solenoid) is simply a switch. It turns the power from the positive post on the battery 'on' and 'off'. Find a location along the wire where you can mount the circuit breaker and relay to the vehicle's body or inner support brackets.

     With these three steps, you can follow power from the battery, to the circuit breaker, to the relay, on to the amp gauge, and down to the HHO generator. The ground wire will lead from the cell back to the battery.

     (If installing a PWM, the unit will install like a switch on the ground wire back to the battery.)

Service Switch

     7-4  This step locates and installs the 'service switch' that allows you to easily override your system and is used to activate the relay (or solenoid). The service switch can be located inside the vehicle or within the engine compartment.

     The switch will receive an 'ignition on' power source that runs through the switch and on to one of the relays control terminals. This supplies a 12 volt current to the relay and activates it only when the ignition is 'on'. The relay's other control terminal is connected to ground to complete the circuit.

Ignition 'On' Power Source

     7-5  When selecting the best 'ignition on' power source there a many options. These options also apply to advanced electronic controllers (like PWMs) that may use a 'voltage sensing relay' to automatically activate the HHO system.

     Think about things on the vehicle that only receive power with the key turned to the 'ignition' position (not 'accessory'). A simple source can sometimes be the windshield wiper motors. This is an example finding a wire and splicing your power lead onto it.

     You can also inspect the fusebox with a voltmeter. Turn the key to the 'on' position and take readings on which fuses turn on and off with the key. You do not need much amperage to activate a relay or solenoid. However, if you can start with higher rated fuses and work to the smaller, you may have quicker results.

     Their are also ways to connect the activation wire to the oil pressure sending unit that only produces power when the engine is running.

     If you have a good understanding of what we are looking for, then the best thing to find is the power to the vehicle's fuel pump. The manufacturers design the vehicle's fuel pump to only activate while the engine is running.



     Please see the next section for an overview of mixing the electrolyte solution.


 

 

8) Mixing the Electrolyte Solution

     From many years of experience, we recommend you first mix an initial batch of electrolyte that is on the 'weak' side and increase output from there.

     The amount of electrolyte you add increases the conductivity of the water, and therefore allows more current to run through it. This means high 'amps' will create more HHO and fewer amps will produce less.

     There is an important point when tuning these systems: You are looking for the optimum output for your engine while maintaining the lowest current draw possible.

     You will hear many stories of people running '50 amps' through their tiny HHO generator. While in fact some units are designed to run this high, most will generate too much heat and most of the production is simply steam and not HHO gas.

Establish Your Vehicle's Recipe

     Start by deciding on your 'recipe' for your mixture. We recommend using one quart (or one liter) of distilled water as your starting point. To this amount, our systems use approximately one quarter to one half cup of electrolyte (in this case KOH) to operate the unit close to 15 amps of current draw. 
 
     Note: Each system is different, so these are simply guidelines to start. Confirm the specific directions for the system you purchased.

     After dissolving the electrolyte in a container full of water, add the solution to the reservoir tank. Give the system time for the water to slowly fill the HHO generator. Please note that adding all the electrolyte to the water at once will cause the mixture to GET HOT. Please mix small amounts at a time.
 
     Note: Adding all the electrolyte to the water at once will cause the mixture to GET HOT.

Test the Recipe

     With your first start of the system, it's a good idea to turn your service switch on for ten seconds and then turn it off again. If there were any wiring mistakes, you will have a safe window to confirm all is fine.

     When your system is running, give it time to 'settle down' and determine what range of amperage it reads. Draw will increase as the unit comes to operating temperature. This is a very exciting first step.

     After running the system for a while, you may find the solution is too weak or too strong. Also, at some point you may see discoloration appearing in the water. Some 'rusty' color is okay from mineral deposits and contaminates in the system.

     For changes to the solution (or replacement if solution turns dark) we recommend using the quick disconnect to drain the system into a clean bucket. If the solution is clean, you can add more electrolyte (or more water if you need to dilute it) and re-fill the system. Any sediment or discoloration only happens on the first batch of solution as the plates are 'conditioned'.
 
     The break in period pulls out some of the remaining iron content from the plates and small particles of rust float in the water. This is not critical, and after some time you can flush the system and re-fill with a new batch that will stay clean.

Important Lessons

     The
first important lesson of finding your 'recipe' is how to change the range of the amperage by changing the strength of the solution.

    The second lesson is recognizing the water circulates very slowly through the system. This means if you only make changes to the reservoir tank (by adding another teaspoon for example) it will not evenly mix throughout the system. In fact, you may see no difference until you drive the car for an hour and then suddenly your amperage spikes and the circuit breaker turns your system off.


     Please see the next section for an overview of initial testing of your HHO system


 

 

9) Initial Testing of Your HHO System

     At this stage of the installation, you have conquered many of the fundamentals of HHO system installation. To be successful, it is now time to perform quality control actions to assure yourself of good results, and to make the fine tuning of the system easier.

     Many obvious points should now be inspected:

      Are all the fittings secure and leak free?
     Recognize all the connectors are high grade fittings that can be removed and replaced with standard plumbing Teflon tape.

      Are all the wires securely attached and are they running cool?
     Loose wires will cause heat and shorts. Check all your crimp connections and confirm the wires are not dangling loose or touching parts of the vehicle that can melt or damage them.

      Review your ignition on choice and any electronics.
     Make sure your system only comes on when you want, and not when somebody puts the key in the 'accessory' position to listen to the radio. Also, if you are using an EFIE or similar electronic device, make certain its power supply is tied into the HHO system. If one turns off, they both should.

      Can you notice any difference at idle?
     By switching the system 'on' after the engine is started, you can notice a difference in the engine's idle speed or it becoming smoother.

      Do you notice a power increase?
     The number one response to these systems is 'it has much more power'. You should be able to notice this as well, and often a lower octane gasoline will run without 'knocking'.

      Is the current draw staying within a predictable window?
     Unless you have also installed electronics or a PWM, the amperage of the unit should start lower when it's first started and rise as the operating temperature increases. We can expect this draw to double on the high side, so start with it low and allow yourself time to see how your vehicles heat and use change this.

      Are you checking the water level?
     Ideally the water level should be kept between half and two thirds full. If it's too high, you run the risk of sending water to the engine, and when it's on the low side, your HHO production may decrease.

     The easiest way to maintain your electrolyte is to mix your 'recipe' into a gallon jug of distilled water and keep this in the garage or in the vehicle's rear cargo area. This allows for easy topping off and keeping the solution strength consistent over time.

     Welcome to the Club
     Many vehicles respond quickly to the addition of HHO. Others require fine tuning the system to find the 'sweet spot' needed for that engine size. For these and a any really troublesome vehicles, we have several trouble shooting checklists to standardize results for everyone


     Please see the our Frequently Asked Support Questions

 

 

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